Travels in Nepal 2005

TRAVELS IN NEPAL 2005

Thursday, Nov 24:
I started my last day in Hanoi with breakfast at Mocha’s. This time I met a most interesting group of Americans: Suel Jones from Alaska a volunteer with Vietnam Freedom Village, Dan Rocovits – World Village foundation both organizations dedicated to repair some of the damages of the American War. Later a couple of young film makers joined us. They were researching the history of the Ho Chi Minh Trail. Hopefully, we will see the results of their efforts on PBS someday soon.

My project today was to visit and photograph the Long Bien Bridge and Sông Hông River (Red River). This bridge is very famous as it was the sole link to the coal fields of Haiphong which were vital to the Vietnamese war effort. The Americans made many attempts to take the bridge out, but the Vietnamese displayed extraordinary ingenuity in making repairs and were able to put the bridge back in service with extraordinary rapidity after each attack. The result is a curious looking bridge, as if each section was designed by a different engineer!!
After a late lunch I attended a concert at the famous water puppet theatre a unique production in which the puppets all float in a shallow pool of water. After the concert at 6:20 p.m. I left for the airport en route to Bangkok and Kathmandu. The flight from Hanoi to Bangkok is a short hop of 1½ hours. In Bangkok I stayed at the Amari Airport Hotel.

Friday, Nov 25:
I left the airport with about 1½ hours before boarding time to allow for “procedures” but the red tape was much more protracted than I had expected and I was at risk of missing my plane until an official helped me and some others jump the queue. On our fight into Nepal we were rewarded with the best views ever (for me) of Mount Everest and the other mountain giants. However, on landing I was disappointed in finding Kathmandu blanketed by a thick haze, with no mountains in sight in a season famous for mountain views. On board I traveled with an American acrobat and entrepreneur based in Bangkok. He was visiting Kathmandu as a volunteer to work with street kids. He traveled with his own transportation in the form of a mono cycle. Wisely he took a cab from airport as there are too many potholes for safety, worse even than St.John’s at winter’s end! After getting my visa and some cash I headed of to my accustomed Hotel Ambassador arriving at 12:30 pm. I spent the afternoon getting oriented by visiting CIWEC Clinic, the British Council and Canadian Co-operation offices.

Saturday, Nov. 26:
At breakfast I joined some Tibetan students who were in town studying English at the nearby British Council. I then headed down to Asan Tole market to buy some Nepali books to replace those left in Canada. On the way back to the hotel I dropped into Royal Nepal Trekking Agency on a whim and decided to make a deal with them. The plan is to trek in the Annapurna Natural Reserve but probably, not all the way to Annapurna Sanctuary. This area is adjacent to the area which Trevor and I trekked through in 1992. It is one of the most popular trekking routes so we should be meeting lots of other trekkers. The risk from Maoist guerillas is considered low as there is a truce in effect. I also went to the barbers so that I would not be mistaken for a yeti!

Sunday, Nov 27:
I was picked up along with my guide Min at 7:00 am as planned. We then extricated ourselves from Kathmandu and its smog and headed off to Pokhara. Along the way we went through several army checkpoints, but as I did not look like a Maoist (or yeti) we were let through without any fuss. On arrival in Pokhara we went directly to the Tourist Office and soon had my trekking permit in hand after paying a R 2000/- ($ 33.00 Can) fee. After a too long snack we set off again to Nyapul (New Bridge which is none too new!) and thence to Biretani – an easy stroll of about 45 minutes (2 km?). We checked into an old style lodge. There were only four of guests, myself, an ancient lady professor from Berkley (78 years old) and our guides. This lady is veteran of Nepal but I think this will be her last trek.
(Distance walked = 2 km, elevation 1050 m).

Monday, Nov 28:
At around 8:30 we set off following Modi Khola in the upstream direction. At first it was easy going until Saulebajar, then it was a steep uphill climb to Chane, then a stretch of easy going of about 1 km and finally a long steady climb to Gandruk. Most of the way we traveled with a Gurung lady who was also going to Gandruk to visit her ailing father. She was a chatterbox and “chewed” Min’s ear for most of the 5 hour trek. It was good practice for me to try and figure out what they were saying. She spoke excellent Nepali and so listening was a good lesson for me. If I could travel 1000 km with her it would improve my Nepali wonderfully. At Gandruk we checked into a fancy hotel, which even promised hot water, but by the time we arrived the hot water had all been used up. There were many foreign trekkers – two groups about 20 people in all. The Dutch were prominent. Mountainous Nepal is quite the opposite of flat Holland!! (Distance walked = 10 km elevation = 1950 m).

Tuesday, Nov 29:
Today we trekked from Gandruk to Chomrong. This involved a climb to a spur at about 2200 m then a descent down to Kyumnu Khola (1400 m) then a climb up to Chomrong at 2150 m. Chomrong is just below Annapurna South and lies in the shadow of this giant peak. The view of Machupuchare from Chomrong is also excellent. We were promised warm water, but as on the previous day, the warm water was all gone by the time we arrived: such is the penalty for being a slow poke. Once again we saw many Maoist slogans on rock faces but not as many as yesterday. My ability to decipher these massages is limited but I did get the impression that the Maoists all seemed to be good at grammar and handwriting. Although at a similar elevation as Gandruk, it was noticeably colder here ( 5oC), perhaps this is because it is closer to the ice fields. (Distance walked, 9 km elevation 2000 m)

Wednesday, Nov 30:
Today we started out with the intention of hiking to Landrung, but Min was in poor condition having consumed too much rakshi the night before with his friends. I hiked ahead of him and thought for sometime that that I had lost him. However, we eventually reunited at Jinudanda where we decided to stay here to take advantage of the geothermal springs nearby. After lunch, I set off to visit to the springs. Most of the walk was through jungle. There were lots of birds singing in the trees but they were hard to see and I wasn’t able to identify any of them. The hot springs have been developed into three pools the first of which was occupied. I went to the third pool and had fifteen minute soak in the nude as there were no spectators around. The temperature was pleasantly warm and fresh unlike most other geothermal springs where the water is usually tainted with H2S. After supper the locals put on a show for us, not high theatre but fun anyway. Here electrical supply was via a photo voltaic system. This provided enough light for reading before going to sleep. (Distance 6 km elevation 1300 m).

Thursday, Dec 1:
Today we retreated mostly downhill until we reached Modi Khola again at another Nyapul. In this case the new bridge was a make-shift affair of four logs side-by-side and will surely not survive the next monsoon flood. We then climbed back up hill towards Landrum where we had lunch before continuing to our day’s destination at Thoka Village. Among the guests at the lodge were a group of four French trekkers. They had got together over the internet to plan their excursion and the first time they met face-to-face was when the arrived in Kathmandu. Their guide had got them some ganga (marijuana) and they invited me for a smoke but I declined! There were rumours of someone buying goats in the district which was a prelude that the army was planning a visit. Sure enough a contingent of troops came marching through in the early hours of the morning, or so I was told as I wasn’t willing to poke my nose out of my warm sleeping bag to see for myself. Hopefully this is not a prelude for problems to come. (Distance 7 km, elevation 1600 m).


Friday, Dec 2:
The decision today was whether to walk all the way out or spend another day in the mountains. Eventually I decided to stay another day in the mountains and hang out at Pothana, a village about a half day’s hike from Thoka from which a panoramic view of the mountains was promised. The walk was fairly easy except for a steep climb to the pass at Deuladi. We lunched at Deuladi from where we could see the peak of Daulagiri in the west, the only place on this hike from which this giant peak is visible. From Deuladi onwards we traveled on an easy path following a ridge into Pothana: after a short ramble of 1½ hours. From Pothana we did indeed have a panoramic view from west to east: Annapurna – Malaku – Lamjung Himal. Later in the evening we were joined by a group of Australian trekkers 4 girls and 2 guys. That night we had a party with dancing and songs since it was the last night on the trail for all of us. This village was the only one on the journey that did not obtain its power from a renewable source but relied on a small diesel generator. Lights were provided from 5:30 to 9:30 pm only. The cooks working from a small primitive kitchen provided supper for a wide variety of choices: dhal bhat, spaghetti, pizza etc, with minimum delays. It was a very impressive performance. (Distance = 7 km, elevation 1800 m).

Saturday, Dec 3:
Today’s trek followed a ridge line route from Pothana to Dampus from which we had splendid views of the Annapurnas, Machupuchare and Lamjung Himal. After Dampus the path became very steep as we descended to Phedi on the Pokhara to Baglung road. On the trail we were accompanied by two ladies from Thoka our erstwhile hostess and her girl friend. We shared the taxi ride into town and later I joined them rowing in Phewa Lake. The actual rower was supplied by the renter of the boat! I think I was the only one on board who could swim. That evening I had supper at Takali Inn including a glass of fiery apricot brandy produced in Takali territory (possibly at Tukuche, where Trevor and I visited in 1992).
(Distance 5.5 km elevation 1000m).

Sunday, Dec 4:
We got up early for a quick breakfast and then took a taxi to the bus station to catch a “tourist” bus to Kathmandu. The trip was a lot chillier than expected as the sky was overcast with low lying clouds which did not lift until mid day and my window was loose and let in the cold. The trip took from 7:30 am to 2:30 pm with stops for breakfast and lunch. After reaching Kathmandu I returned to my base at Hotel Ambassador. Later in the afternoon I took a cab towards Baudha to look for my former Nepali teacher and friend Prakash Sharma. I found his ausadi pasal (drug store) and soon found him, his wife Prema, youngest daughter and grand daughter also. We chatted for awhile then agreed to meet later at a more convenient time and place, knowing one-another’s co-ordinates.

Monday, Dec 5:
The first business of the day was to call the Canadian Co-operation Office to get SNC-Lavalin’s phone number and address as Vancouver was asking for information from me. Later in the morning I walked down to NEA’s office to look-up Sulpya. He was quite surprised to see me as he thought I was still in Vietnam. We chatted as he attended to business and later took me over to Regmi’s office after which we all went to Nangol’s for lunch. Sulpya brought me up-to-date on his project work and duties of his current position of Director – Power Trading Dept. including dealing with independent power producers. In the evening, Sulpya invited me over for dinner and sent his jeep to pick me up. His wife prepared a delicious Newari meal and I had the pleasure of meeting his talented and charming daughter.

Tuesday, Dec 6:
In the morning I went to visit Dr. Nepali at his project office to earn about his 20 MW Chimile Project, that is effectively a 100% Nepali effort. Dr. Nepali acknowledged his gratitude for the education and technology transfer via the CIWEC program. His application of this knowledge validates the objectives of the program. There are several other small, medium and one large Nepali hydro project that have been designed and constructed by Nepali engineers to standards equal to any other country all using know-how obtained via the CIWEC program. I think Canadians can take pride to their contribution to hydropower development in Nepal. Later in the day I went over to SNC-Lavalin’s project office. I was surprised to see Rekha Sakya in the secretary’s office and also met Nagakoti, both of whom I knew from the days I worked in Nepal. There were others too who remembered me although I did not remember them. I met the principals in SNC-Lavalin’s current project which was about managing environmental assessment studies. I was also invited for a party the following evening by Mr.Sanjive.

Wednesday, Dec 7:
At lunch time I met with Aarti, Tamang and Sulpiya to plan a reception for my last evening in Nepal on the following Sunday. After lunch I went shopping for souvenirs in Thamel - along Freak Street to be exact! That evening I was invited to supper by Mr. Sanjive – Administrator for the CEAM project. I expected something simple just for Bill Altimas and myself, but the whole project team was there for a real feast. I ate rather too much of the appetizers and couldn’t do justice to the main course when it arrived (what’s new?).

Thursday, Dec 8:
After a leisurely breakfast I decided to play tourist and headed out to Baudhnath to visit the famous stupa and nearby Tibetan temples and bazaar. As always it was a pleasant place to hang-out for an hour or two and to enjoy a rooftop lunch at Stupa Restaurant. In the afternoon I visited the Independent Power Producers Association of Nepal (IPPAN) since this was a business trip!! I was given a though briefing on their activities and plans for the future. IPPAN represents owners, developers and service industry companies interested in developing small hydro plant up to 5 MW (nominally) for selling power through the NEA grid. The mini hydro industry, less than 100 kW normally, have their own association and are mostly involved in supplying power in remote areas to trekking lodges, villages and rural industries (usually to flour mills). In the evening I treated myself to a fancy dinner at the famous Chimney Restaurant at Yak and Yeti hotel. The meal consisted of borsch soup and chicken stroganoff prepared according to the recipes of Boris Lissanovich the father of tourism in Nepal and all-round interesting character.

Friday, Dec 9:
I started the day checking my e-mails only to realize that my accounting for the days was somehow off and that I had missed a day in my calculations. My reception planned for Sunday would have to be advanced to Saturday evening instead. I guess when you are having a good time it is easy track of the dates. Aarti undertook to adjust the arrangements and ensure that every one was advised of the change in plans. At 11:00 a.m. or so I interviewed Mr. Kalwar an engineer planning to emigrate to New Zealand on a scheme organized by Mahenna Bhatt an Englishman of Indian origin. For my pains Bhatt paid me in beer and chapattis at a very good restaurant I might add.



Saturday, Dec 10:
This was my last day in Nepal and my social calendar was jammed: first brunch with Bhojraj Regmi and wife Sutindar, then lunch with Bishnu Neopane and finally my supper party. At Regmi’s I learned more about the functioning of his department and was interested to learn that they have a mandate to work as sub contractors both inside and outside of Nepal. They had submitted a couple of bids in collaboration with Indian firms but without luck so far. One of the features of globalization is that it could be interesting for foreign firms to sublet design work to his group to benefit from the relatively low wages of Nepali engineers and technicians. Bishnu meanwhile has gone into tourism in a big way with the Last Resort Bungee Jump and Lodge at a site near the Tibetan border. He is doing quite well with it.

In the evening I hosted a supper at the Soalti Hotel’s Bukhara Room. The menu was on an Afghan theme. Altogether there were:
Tamang and wife #2
Bhojraj and Sutindar Regmi
Prakash and Prema Sharma
Saraswati Rajbanduri and husband
Aatri Rai and Dr. Rai
Maski and wife.
And myself.
Excellent place and food but expensive at American prices.

Sunday, Dec 11:
Final packing and breakfast. Saraswati came over and left a gift for me, while Regmi sent over a souvenir program from the opening of Modi Khola Hydropower Station. Had a pleasant flight on Thai Airlines - good food and service as befit business class! Had a wonderful view of the Ganges-Bramaputra delta and the many mouths discharging into the Bay of Bengal. Stayed overnight at Amari Hotel Bangkok Airport.

Monday, Dec 12:
Was up early to avoid any problems at the airport. I flew again with Thai Airlines. The flight was routine. Hanoi on arrival was overcast and cool so I could comfortably wear my new Nepali jacket. Staff at Asean Hotel were glad to see me again. My stay in Hanoi was short this time and I left a couple of days later on Wednesday, Dec 13 arriving back in Canada in Vancouver on December 14, 2005.

Thus ended my latest Nepali adventure

Phil Helwig